| The title
“Bottle Shock,” like all good titles, is
a play on words. On the one hand, it refers to a phenomenon
that viniculturists have debated for years; some believe
that long-distance travel can alter the taste of wine,
possibly as the result of an oxidation process. On the
other hand, it refers to the shocking 1976 wine-tasting
contest between French and Napa Valley, California wineries.
You may have heard a great deal about this contest.
Then again, maybe you haven’t, so I won’t
reveal which side won. It’s probably better if
you don’t know anyway, since half the fun of this
movie is anticipating the climactic contest. Everything
building up to it makes for a charming, witty, and at
times highly emotional story, not at all unlike a well-made
sports movie. In this case, the underdogs are California
wine-makers, who at one time were not taken seriously;
no one, especially the French, believed that the Americans
were capable of producing anything other than Thunderbird.
In the film, one of these skeptics is Steven Spurrier
(Alan Rickman), a British connoisseur operating a failing
wine academy in Paris. One fateful day, his sole customer--an
American travel agent named Maurice (Dennis Farina)--lets
him in on a little secret: insider reports say that
wines produced in Napa Valley are rivaling the best
French wines. Intrigued, Spurrier travels to California
and begins touring the various wineries. If the wines
are as good as they claim to be, he hopes to bring them
back to France and organize a blind taste test. He soon
finds himself at the Chateau Montenela, a struggling
Napa Valley winery owned by Jim Barrett (Bill Pullman).
Stubborn vintner that he is, Barrett is convinced that
Spurrier isn’t actually interested in California
wines; he only wants to make the United States look
foolish in a predetermined contest. It’s true
that Spurrier is a bit of a snob. At one point, he says
that he’s not a jerk: “It’s just that
I’m British and ... you’re not.” Be
that as it may, his discerning palate is quickly adapting
to Napa Valley wines, which he feels are of a very high
quality.
If this were the full extent of the story, “Bottle
Shock” probably wouldn’t be any better or
worse than the average contest film. Fortunately, a
couple of interwoven subplots make the film much more
interesting, not only because they add appropriate touches
of human drama, but also because they balance the story.
One focuses on the relationship between Barrett and
his son, Bo (Chris Pine), a twenty-something slacker
who has quit school and has absolutely no ambition.
He doesn’t seem to realize how much his father
is suffering, mostly due to financial problems and the
fact that he won’t let anyone help him; he would
rather fail on his own than succeed with assistance.
Judging by his reaction to Spurrier, Barrett is also
bitter and distrustful, probably because of his failed
marriage. Bo thinks his father is just pigheaded, which
is probably why he escapes the winery as often as he
can. The two regularly vent their frustrations in a
makeshift outdoor boxing ring, and while I’m not
sure anything was solved that way, at least I recognized
the symbolism of father/son relationships.
The other subplot focuses on the relationship between
Bo, his friend, Gustavo (Freddy Rodríguez), and
Sam (Rachael Taylor), Barrett’s kindly, perceptive
new intern. While the implications of a love triangle
are obvious, it’s difficult to say whether or
not there actually is one. Bo definitely pines for Sam’s
attention, and by the end of the movie, we can see that
he genuinely cares for her. But does that mean he’s
falling in love with her? Maybe, but since he thinks
more of her than the other women he’s slept with,
it’s possible that he’s willing to take
things slowly. Sam has intimate moments with both men,
but that’s to be expected from someone so open
hearted about how she feels.
At least she likes the wine produced by Gustavo and
his father (Miguel Sandoval), and that leads me to yet
another subplot, this one focusing on the tension between
Gustavo and Barrett. Barrett has let Gustavo work on
his vineyard for a while now, but lately, it seems Gustavo’s
attention has been averted. The young vintner passionately
pleads his case: to make great wine, you must have it
in your blood; you must have the soil under your nails
and the scent of grapes in the air you breathe. He doesn’t
feel that Barrett would understand this since he wasn’t
born or raised near a vineyard. Maybe Gustavo is right--Barrett
can’t even make a chardonnay without it turning
a sickly brown color.
So isn’t it a wonder that Bo arrives at the airport
with two bottles of the stuff, just as Spurrier is about
to leave for France with twenty-four other bottles of
California wine? Probably not. The simple fact is that
Barrett’s wine somehow had to make it into the
wine-tasting contest, and what better way than to have
it delivered just in time? Part of the appeal of “Bottle
Shock” is that it doesn’t allow scenes like
this to overshadow subtler moments, some of the best
reserved for Alan Rickman. Example: when he gets his
first taste of Kentucky Fried Chicken, we’re not
sure if he’s savoring the food or getting ready
to spit it out. It works as a counterpart to the film’s
final shot, which may or may not be a clever display
of vinicultural superiority. Another example: a slow-moving
shot of gawking men cuts to Sam spraying a piece of
equipment with a high-pressure hose. They’re fleeting
moments, but at least they keep the story grounded.
Had this movie just been about a wine-tasting contest,
I doubt it would have been as enjoyable. Like a fine
wine, “Bottle Shock” is developed, well
rounded, and has a strong finish.
- Chris Pandolfi
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